travelogue: karlskrona, southern sweden

a house in southern sweden and a bunch of lovely swedes...

behind a beautiful wooden door with a mermaid handle was a most amazing home.  i was hit by a sense of calm, hospitality and coziness.  

when petter invited us to spend easter with his family, we didn't hesitate to accept his invitation.  spending time with our friends, exploring the south of sweden, breathing in country fresh air, it would be wonderful we imagined.  well, it was even more than we imagined.  

despite having only meant karin and kenneth, petter's parents, a couple of times, we were welcomed with open arms; our bellies filled with beautiful homemade foods - the daily bread, the kardemom bulle and cookies for fika, the dinners; the chatter and laughter over many cups of tea.  the gin and tonic was nice too, i hadn't had one in ages!

this home is filled with creative energy.  i was so inspired by the weaving and ceramics; there's even karin's mothers huge loom in the attic.  the vignettes karin creates around the house are thoughtful. a nightly fire. mix in kenneth's humour and warm smile, well, i never wanted to leave.

here is a peek into our days with this beautiful family...

we explored karlskrona with ximena and petter, a four hour walk with time for tea and chocolate.  the boys devoured semla - probably the last of the season - while chatting with old swedish ladies in a grandmotherly cafe... this sight will forever make me smile.

stefan and i took the kiddos to the navy museum to see the submarine; the kids loved it and it was pretty cool to be in one.  not as crapped as we thought but still i little too tight for my claustrophobia tendencies.  there was also the underwater tunnel, artifacts, steering a ship which the kids say was a very good simulation, and learning what life on board was like - gruesome if you needed a leg amputated.

my favourite?  the figureheads that once sat on the bow of sweden's warships.  the idea that such effort was applied to make these massive sculptures for decorative purposes is impressive.  and most have been involved in naval battles!

pic from the navy museum website

the thursday before easter, it is said the witches fly across sweden to frolic with the devil in blä jungfrun, a teeny island off the southern coast.  so, of course, children dress up as witches - or as in kai's case, an easter boy - and go door to door exchanging little drawings for coins or candy.  such an odd tradition but the kiddos had fun.  

hanging out on the rocky coastline was lovely.  into the backpack went the sausages - swedes always have sausage ready to go, seriously! - the bread, the just made tea, the seating pads, the axe and the matches for fire-making.  

it was kai's paradise; cutting up firewood, exploring the woods, climbing trees.  the girls too, how lucky to have grandparents who live here.  livia making a fire under her farfar's watchful eye and cecelia combing the seashore and gathering sticks for our sausages.

easter, celebrated the day before, starts with äggkaka (an egg cake) and bacon for breakfast followed by egg painting to add to the feather decorations.  there's egg hunting in the yard and devouring lots of chocolate!  

after an afternoon pause an early dinner is served - a classic swedish buffet - kötbullar, sill, janssons' temptation (the latter stefan's favourite potato casserole with anchovies, onions and cream) - while drinking snaps (but not for me) and singing songs.  the finale of this dinner was a gorgeous homemade ice cream egg wrapped in marzipan - it was incredibly delicious, the kind of delicious that has you close your eyes and savoring the flavors.  everything was amazing.

so grateful for this time.  karin and kenneth, if you are reading this, greetings and thank you for the nice days in karlskrona and your warm reception.  it was lovely to get to know you.

and then we headed to öland... my travelogue tomorrow.