"robinson crusoe-isolation with a five-star chef"... when i came across this quote describing vis i knew it was the perfect place for summer vacation. culling and editing these photos transported me back to each moment and it made me want to do the journey all over again! it's going to be a multi post travelogue, get comfortable :)
split, croatia
a stop over in split, waiting for our ferry to vis, we wandered the charming palace streets, ate grilled squid and drank peach lemonade, so good.
the palace, in which the roman emperor dicoletian chose to retire, is today home to scores of shops, restaurants, and bars... how many thousands of feet have walked here to polish the pavement to such a shine.
i must admit, i didn't think i would like split, i'd heard it's industrial and ugly, but i was pleasantly surprised. the palace of diocletian is actually one of the unesco world heritage sites.
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| stefan always finds a coffee shop |
arriving to vis via ferry...
vis
located in the adriatic sea, it's a beautiful small island. just 20km from tip to tip with the town of vis on one end and komiza on the other. it has two main roads that link the two towns. in between you'll find stony fields, organic farms, and gorgeous beaches. we fell for vis, it's authenticity, emerald waters, the fresh fish and local wine, cats that curl up on your lap, and the best ever pistachio ice cream.
best of all? vis feels remarkably untouched, devoid of mass tourism. this may be due to the fact that the island was a military zone off-limits to tourists until 1989. without the tourism, it has retained its charm and nature on the island is well preserved and very lush thanks to its own source of fresh water.
the food is insane! thanks to local ingredients, restaurants provide a feast using whatever's freshest, all washed down with local wine. the latter is really good, vugava (white) and mali plavac (red). fishing is the island's main industry and the fish is excellent! there is good cheese, gorgeous prsut (prosciutto), anchovies and sardines made a variety of ways (salted, stuffed in flatbread, grilled, marinated), and kai's favourite a simple green salad with pomodori (tomatoes), cabbage and greens.
staying in kut, a little village just 20 minutes away from vis town, we were in walking distance of some of the best restaurants on the island. we at at val, kantun, and vatrica to name a few... all overlooking the bay and all offering outstanding cooking. afterwards, you can stroll with the croatians for their passegiatta and inspect the yachts moored along the pier.
cats are everywhere on the island... people just look after them. we bought a bag of cat food to carry around with us; most are grateful for the food while a few are spoiled on fish and snub the dry cat food. most just want attention and love and will happily come say hello and sit on your lap.
hotel san giorgio
located in the kut area just outside of the town of vis, nestled in narrow cobbled streets, hotel san giorgio, names after the patron saint of vis town, is welcoming.
set in a centuries old stone building, the atmosphere is quite charming. across the narrow alley within the walled ruins of an adjoining old stone house, there are open-air tables where we started our days with breakfast and ended them with a glass of local wine. lemon trees surround you.
and, a friendly happy host ensures you enjoy your stay.
travelogue: vis, croatia (part 2) is next... the best beaches!
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