driving down the narrow and winding roads to whitesands - actually, driving to most places - with no passing places, was nerve-wrecking, you could not see if a vehicle was coming the other way. the only way to deal with this was close my eyes and be oblivious (with maybe a bit of yelling that we were going to crash, but not saying for sure) because the beach was worth it. you must read this article to feel a little something of what we experienced driving in england, it captures it perfectly!!!
whitesands is a wide sandy beach perfect for swimming - but only if you wear a wetsuit! it wasn't the warmest day and quite windy. on this day, after some frolicking on the beach we ventured up the cliffs along the coastal path for views.
we would return in a couple of days to surf... or at least try to surf!
continuing along the narrow roads, we hoped to visit st. davids, the smallest city in the county but it was overrun with tourists so we left and then came upon porthgain, a tiny fishing port. the name means 'chisel port', to a time the town survived first on the slate quarry business then brick-making. the village is topped by picturesque ruined quarry buildings.
at the sloop inn, a traditional pub serving locally caught fish from its harbour since the middle of the 18th century, we ate well. and they serve welsh cakes! this teeny town is also home to a couple of art galleries.
a little of the beaten track, we found foel y mwnt (meaning bald mount); a beach with a tiny white chapel and its shiny slate roof nearby - built in the 14th century, it served as a refuge for passing sailors - at the foot of a small hill with amazing views of cardigan bay.
we hung out in the sheltered sandy cove before climbing the steep conical hill. then walked around the lower path hoping to see seals and dolphins - apparently it's the ideal spot to spot them - but no such luck.
instead, we met a friendly local who gave us a history lesson about the area, the language and the dangers... apparently walking up the hill during high winds can knock you right off you feet, plummeting to your death as has happened just the day before!
tomorrow, travelogue: wales, part 3 of 3, traeth bach, the witch's cauldron and aberaeron
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