mala cove and travna
it was quite a trek to get here but i am so glad we preserved. as far as eating is concerned this place - and the one on stonica beach - were favorites. these domestic restaurants offer only local products in idyllic settings.
surrounded by rocks and a pebble beach in the cove, is a small restaurant in a traditional old stone house. at mala travna, we sampled the adriatic's version of the slow food experience, a lunch that took a few hours to eat.
we actually came by here earlier in the week to book because the chef sometimes cooks and sometimes he doesn't. the locals we talked to describe him as a writer, artist and philosopher who happens to be a passionate chef. he lives simply off the land and sea, emphasis on locally grown ingredients and traditional methods of cooking.
so, when we approached him to ask about booking for saturday - fingers crossed behind our backs - he said yes! when we asked when, he said he might start at 12 or 1 or maybe even 2, just show up. so, we did. it's super casual, just bring a swimsuit.
our afternoon at senko karuza's home, perched over a lovely isolated cove mentioned above, was one of our favourites. there is no menu, you eat the fresh local ingredients he happens to have on offer. on this day there were cubes of sheep cheese in oil and herbs, carpaccio sardines, sun-dried tomatoes, pickled wild asparagus soaked in vinegar and coiled, fish soup, marinated anchovies with capers, salted sardines, pate of white fish, fire grilled fish and ell caught that day. he serves his very own wine too, grapes grown by him and the labels on the bottles were drawn by his daughter when she was littler (today she was our 'waitress').
swimming is encouraged as is playing with the cats.
i have to say visiting vis and lemons (my greece travelogue coming next) - was definitely one of our best vacations. we ended it with feelings of happiness and well-being... the way a vacation should feel.
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